Lanvin's Menswear Centennial: A Plush Celebration of Heritage and Controversy
As Lanvin marks a century in menswear, its Fall 2026 collection stands as a testament to the brand's enduring legacy—but with a twist. Artistic director Peter Copping, while drawing thematic parallels to his women’s pre-fall collection (inspired by founder Jeanne Lanvin’s 1920s Venetian trip with her niece Marianne), has boldly uncoupled the menswear line. But here’s where it gets controversial: Is this a true evolution or a departure from Lanvin’s roots? Let’s dive in.
The collection seamlessly blends historical references with modern sophistication. Fortuny pleating graces roomy tuxedo pants, while camp shirts feature mottled prints reminiscent of midcentury Murano glassware. The star, however, is the plush textures—velvet jacquards from Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, a Venetian textile firm dating back to 1499. Copping’s decision to use these luxurious fabrics for jeans, jackets, and even slippers raises eyebrows. And this is the part most people miss: The heft of these materials adds a unique, almost rebellious edge to traditionally casual pieces. Is this a stroke of genius or a misstep? You decide.
Copping, an English designer with a background in interiors (notably between stints at Oscar de la Renta and Balenciaga couture), transformed one of Lanvin’s showrooms into a gentleman’s living room. A weathered hoodie draped over an Art Deco chair by Armand-Albert Rateau here, a leather pouch on a silver plinth there—the setting exuded timeless elegance. Yet, subtle ’80s influences crept in: asymmetrical collars on sweaters, video arcade-inspired stripes, and animal prints nodding to the ocelot fur Rateau used for Jeanne Lanvin’s bidet and toilet lids (now on display in Paris). But here’s the kicker: While these elements add playfulness, Copping’s focus remains on sophisticated, grown-up chic with a timeless, heirloom quality.
Archival embroideries, originally destined for cocktail dresses, found new life on dark dress shirts, blending tradition with modernity. A brushed alpaca cocoon coat felt like a piece that could be passed down through generations. Footwear, too, saw a shift. Lanvin, moving away from its iconic Curb skating shoe, introduced the Lnv2—a low-profile sneaker with trapunto stitching—and a lighter, sock-like iteration of the classic. The question remains: Will these new designs resonate as deeply as the brand’s storied past?
What do you think? Is Copping’s vision a bold step forward or a risky departure? Share your thoughts in the comments—let’s spark a conversation about where heritage meets innovation.
